Thursday, September 6, 2012

Is all press good press?

Sometimes the truth hurts. Last week, Ben O'Donnell of Wine Spectator wrote an article about the image problems facing Long Island wines. The article struck a nerve with one Long Island winemaker, Kareem Massoud of Paumanok Vineyards, because he thought O'Donnell "missed the whole story." Massoud commented on the original story and his comments were republished by the New York Cork Report. Massoud inferred that O'Donnell was unfairly highlighting the negative aspects of the industry when he should have been praising the positives. O'Donnell did not wax poetic about Long Island wines, but he was honest and optimistic.

Sadly, I think Massoud missed the bigger picture. There is no hiding from the fact that many consumers perceive wines from states not named California, Oregon or Washington as being inferior. Glossing over the image problems is not going to solve them. O'Donnell's assertions were not unfounded. I can assure you that wines from New York, Colorado, Virginia, Michigan and even Iowa can be pretty damn good, but nevertheless a perception still exists that prevents many people from even giving these wine regions the chance that they deserve. Perhaps people that wouldn't give Long Island wines the time of day may want to try them simply because Wine Spectator decided to write about them. This is a good thing.

I thought that O'Donnell did a fair job of writing about why a negative perception of Long Island wines exists and how wineries are working to change that perception. He did offer praise where it was due. Sometimes wineries don't like to hear constructive criticism. I have tried telling a few Colorado winemakers that they may have issues, ranging from winemaking flaws to label design, with some of their wines. Often my concerns are met with defensive denials. It is hard to grow an emerging wine region in market share and overall quality when many in the industry turn a blind eye to inconvenient facts. But perhaps the most important thing O'Donnell did with his article was to raise the level of discourse about "local" wine. All too often smaller and newer wine regions are forgotten by the powers that be; media and otherwise.

Restaurants can be invaluable to fostering growth in an emerging wine region. As O'Donnell also explained, Long Island wines are often not widely distributed, yet may be found on the wine lists of top Manhattan restaurants. The same can be said for Colorado wines. "I remember tasting Colorado wine 5 years ago when I first moved to Denver" Jensen Cummings, executive chef at Row 14 Bistro & Wine Bar, told me. Cummings continued, "Not impressed, was an understatement." Sadly, many consumers feel the same way. When wine drinkers have a less then impressive California wine, chances are they will still buy another California wine in the future. However, one bad experience with a local wine is often the nail in the coffin. Even if they give the local wine region another shot, it can take years to clear the bad taste out of their mouth. "It wasn't until last year that," Cummings admitted, that he "blind tasted some CO wines and I was flabbergasted how good they were." Row 14 now offers an array of Colorado wines on the wine list to complement the local ingredients in Cummings' dishes. "I am constantly visited by winemakers and importers from around the world and when given the opportunity to blind taste them I give them a CO wine," added owner David Schneider. "They are always impressed and never guess that the product is local." Turning skeptics into evangelists is a step in the right direction.

I think that the increase in restaurant acceptance of local wines is starting to create waves in the media as well. Over the past few days, former Wine Spectator editor James Suckling has posted about Virginia and British Columbia wine on his website. Suckling isn't exactly known for pushing the envelope in exploring new wine regions, so his willingness to publish content about two overlooked regions is promising. Wine Spectator has been a bit better than most other traditional media outlets, but stories about wine regions in the other 47 states are still rare. New York and Arizona seem to get the most love, but they did recently publish an interview I conducted that focused on Colorado. I predict that as the general public becomes more aware of local wines, publications like Wine Spectator will write about them more.

But back to my main idea. Should Long Island wineries be upset with Wine Spectator for discussing issues that they are facing. I don't think so. I think that wineries should use this type of media mention as a stepping stone for improvement and consumer awareness. While not focusing on the problems, emerging wine regions need to accept that they have quality and consistency issues, be willing to learn from criticism and turn any press into good press. Emerging wine regions need to turn more skeptics into supporters and even evangelists.


  1. Not at all. AN issue someone sees (that you don't and it is actually an issue) is a helping hand. You have to get outside opinions and feedback - after all the people giving opinions might be customers.

  2. I don't think the article is way off. I think your observation of the winery was right on. As a winemaker, you have to be able to take construction criticism, this is how someone gets better at something..

    I agree with Jay, people give their feedback not to be snotty, but because that is what their taste buds tell them. I do think however, if you tell a winemaker his wine isn't there yet, then you as the critic need to be able to give some reasons why otherwise the comments will fall on deaf ears.

    We still have wines here in Colorado that don't quite make the cut, but I still try them because the day they do, we will all take note. We also have wineries as any state, to include the big 3, that the wines may not be great, but the experience in the tasting room and the story may make them taste better.. Again, taste is all subjective and I certainly don't think a winemaker should make drastic changes to process if one or two people make a bad comment. You always serve the majority not the minority.

    I do wish we could get some lovin for Colorado without a blind tasting, but if that is what needs to happen to prove the wines, then bring them on.. Eventually the winemakers here will get noticed and then we'll have "arrived".