I don't normally do this, but as I helped craft the press release and have inside knowledge of this situation because of my position with the Colorado Department of Agriculture, I am just going to repost the original press release here:
On November 29, 2016, an insect capable of damaging Colorado’s wine grape crop was confirmed in Mesa County. US Department of Agriculture’s Agricultural Research Service entomologists positively identified grapevine phylloxera (Daktulosphaira vitifoliae) on Vitis vinifera grapevines in the Grand Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA), which is a federally designated grape production area in western Colorado. Phylloxera is an aphid-like insect that feeds aggressively on grape roots.
“Nearly 75 percent of our grape acreage is in the Grand Valley AVA, which stretches along the Colorado River between Palisade and Grand Junction, and is known for its unique environment and high elevation allowing for production of world-class quality winegrapes,” said Doug Caskey, Colorado Department of Agriculture’s Executive Director for the Colorado Wine Industry Development Board.
In its full life cycle, phylloxera can take multiple forms. The most serious and damaging form, which was recently discovered in Mesa county, feeds on roots of grape plants. It can damage the plant by disrupting water and nutrient flow. Initially, infested plants appear weakened, stunted, and with leaves lighter in color which may look like they are suffering from a nutrient deficiency. In addition, phylloxera can live out another stage of its life on grapevine leaves. This less serious form feeds on leaves that causes leaf galls to develop, but generally not on V. vinifera.
“The Colorado Department of Agriculture and Colorado State University are actively investigating the source and working with the vineyard owner to contain and eradicate the pest. Extensive surveying is also continuing to determine the scope of the infestation,” said Laura Pottorff, CDA’s Nursery and Phytosanitary program manager. “Hopefully we caught this quickly enough to protect Colorado’s grape crop.”
Recommendations for Grape Growers
The Colorado Department of Agriculture is urging vineyard operators to contact their supplying nurseries to find out what, if any, procedures they have in place for identifying and stopping the spread of phylloxera. Colorado grape growers should also take the following precautions:
1. Watch plants for symptoms of chlorotic leaves, stunting and other symptoms that mimic nutritional deficiencies. If detected sample the roots of plants for presence of phylloxera.
2. All harvesting and cultivation equipment should be power washed or sanitized between fields.
3. When purchasing grape nursery stock, request that the plants be hot water dipped prior to shipment.
4. Examine and inspect all new nursery stock prior to planting, or schedule an inspection by CDA staff.
5. Consider use of root-grafted grape nursery stock.
Background
Colorado has approximately 150 grape growers tending 1,000 acres of vineyards and more than 140 licensed commercial wineries. These vintners produced 166,000 cases of wine during the 2016 fiscal year, which equaled more than $33 million in sales.
Phylloxera is native to the eastern and southeastern United States, where native American grape species (such as Vitis riparia and Vitis labrusca) co-evolved with the insect. Though it has spread around the world since the mid-19th Century to many other wine regions, prior surveys found no evidence of phylloxera in Colorado’s commercial vineyards. Grape species native to the U.S. are generally resistant to phylloxera, but V. vinifera vines have no natural resistance whatsoever. This is why phylloxera nearly wiped out all the vineyards in Europe once it survived the trans-Atlantic trip in the mid-19th Century. On V. vinifera grape cultivars, phylloxera normally infests only the underground parts of the plant and eventually kills the vine. The leaf-feeding, gall-producing form is not present. In susceptible American Vitis species and hybrids, the full life cycle occurs, including the leaf-galling form. Colorado had been one of the few wine regions worldwide to not have been affected by phylloxera and as such many grapevines are self-rooted on V. vinifera rootstocks.
Additional Resources
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Showing posts with label Grand Valley AVA. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Grand Valley AVA. Show all posts
Thursday, December 8, 2016
Friday, May 6, 2016
Beatrice's Blushes: Canyon Wind Cellars "Anemoi Eos"
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| Anemoi 2015 Eos |
Canyon Wind Cellars had to have been one of the most successful Colorado wineries. The portfolio had grown since Jay and Jennifer took over and the quality of the wines was always very high. In fact, Canyon Wind took home Best of Show in the state's Governor's Cup competition each of the last two years. The prime location of the vineyard at the mouth of DeBeque Canyon most likely has a lot to do with high level of success achieved by the Christianson family. Now it is time for a different producer to step up and claim the crown.
Tuesday, February 9, 2016
Wednesday's Wines: Creekside Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon
This past weekend a new Colorado wine event was born: Winter Wine Fest. The event was brought about by the Two Parts (formerly Imbibe) event planners and Grand Junction Visitors and Convention Bureau to provide Denver with a Colorado-themed wine event. The slow winter months just happen to be the best time for wineries to attend such an event in Denver. For a first-year event it was very successful - over 400 guests attended to taste wine from 17 different wineries. Through my position with the CO Wine Board, I attended to pour a selection of wines from the 2015 Governor's Cup Case for VIP guests. The feedback from both consumers and wineries was positive. I will be interested to see how it grows in the future.
One of the wines we poured was the Creekside Cellars 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (13.9% abv, Sample $35). There was bit more than half a bottle remaining, so instead of dumping it I brought it home to have during the Super Bowl. This Cabernet is rather light for Cabernet - in both color and body. More than one person at the Winter Wine Fest asked if it was Pinot noir when I poured it for them. It's not anything like Pinot, but I can understand their confusion with what comes in some of the more popular Cabernet bottles from California. In fact, we pour this one before the Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot we also poured. It is a lovely translucent red color and is quite aromatic. On the nose there are aromas of flowers, spices and dark fruit. This wine is all about finesse and not power, but still shows a lot of complexity. The smooth tannins complement the clove, leather, herbs, cherry and blackberry flavors that caress the palate. The combination of flavors and brightness of the acidity harken to an old-school style of Cabernet Sauvignon not afraid of embracing the grape's savoriness. It is a lovely wine that will probably disappoint those looking for the upfront fruit and concentration that hijack so many Cabernet Sauvignon.
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| Creekside Cellars 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon |
Thursday, December 11, 2014
Crossing the Border Guards
Wine appellations fascinate me because my of my interest and background in geography. I often feel like the father in My Big Fat Greek Wedding because I think almost everything has its roots in geography (I mean, describing the phenomena of the Earth is what geography is...). In particular, American Viticultural Areas, or AVAs for short, really intrigue me. Not because they are great in and of themselves, but that they reveal the cultural and political aspects of wine appellations more readily than those in Europe. And yes, culture and politics are just as geographical at heart as soil and climate.
Wednesday, December 18, 2013
Drink It In (a review of the wine guide to Western Colorado)
I've been without Internet at CWP World Headquarters for the last 10 or so days, so I haven't been able to update the blog. By now, I'm sure everyone is already finished with their holiday shopping and has no need for a suggestion on another wine book to purchase for the wine lover in your life. Plus, there are lots of other book suggestions by every other wine writer out there (Eric Asimov, W. Blake Gray and Dave McIntyre fun the gamut).
But what the hell, I'm going to offer one recommendation that you will not find on any other list of wine books. I know you'll be shocked to hear that it is a book about Colorado wine. Two other books on the emerging industry have been published in the past two years, but neither of those offer the information, usefulness and aesthetics of the most recent addition. Granted, I haven't thoroughly read or reviewed either of those two, but I have skimmed through them enough to know that they don't intrigue me. Both of the other books were self-published and written by people unfamiliar with the wine industry, and it shows. They are filled with black and white text and not much more. One is nothing more than a colorless brochure; it is just a list of wineries and contact information with space for the reader to take tasting notes. The other seems to offer a bit more depth and information, but the first paged I opened to contained a factual error (claiming that Chateauneuf du Pape is known for its syrahs) and the author (who for some reason uses a pen name) argued with me about the federal labeling requirements for listing an appellation. That doesn't do a lot to convince me that the book is worth my time.
But what the hell, I'm going to offer one recommendation that you will not find on any other list of wine books. I know you'll be shocked to hear that it is a book about Colorado wine. Two other books on the emerging industry have been published in the past two years, but neither of those offer the information, usefulness and aesthetics of the most recent addition. Granted, I haven't thoroughly read or reviewed either of those two, but I have skimmed through them enough to know that they don't intrigue me. Both of the other books were self-published and written by people unfamiliar with the wine industry, and it shows. They are filled with black and white text and not much more. One is nothing more than a colorless brochure; it is just a list of wineries and contact information with space for the reader to take tasting notes. The other seems to offer a bit more depth and information, but the first paged I opened to contained a factual error (claiming that Chateauneuf du Pape is known for its syrahs) and the author (who for some reason uses a pen name) argued with me about the federal labeling requirements for listing an appellation. That doesn't do a lot to convince me that the book is worth my time.
Friday, February 8, 2013
Taking local to a whole new level
Colorado wineries are small. Even the big ones are small. The biggest wineries in the state produce about 20,000 cases annually. In fact, the entire state produces about 115,000 cases each year (much of it from Colorado-grown grapes). One winery takes the small and local approach to a whole new level. Settembre Cellars is perhaps the smallest winery in the state. Blake and Tracy Eliasson founded the tiny endeavor in their Boulder home in 2007. They made wines in lots as small as 4 and 5 cases. Today, their biggest lot is still a miniscule 84.2 cases and they have just recently crossed the 500 case annual production threshold.
Friday, March 30, 2012
Win tickets on the Colorado wine train from DrinkLocalWine.com
Not bad scenery for a regional wine state, no? |
DLW is giving away two round-trip Amtrak tickets on the California Zephyr, between Denver and Grand Junction, as part of the fun for DLW 2012: Colorado. (Thank you, Amtrak, for the tickets). Entering is simple -- just go to the DLW Facebook page and fill out the form. If you don't like DLW already, hit the like button. It's not a requirement, but it would be nice. A drawing will be held during the conference to select the winner.
Friday, January 27, 2012
Who says Colorado doesn't produce some of the world's best wine?
Colorado makes some damn good wine. However, one of the biggest issues many people have with Colorado wine is the word "Colorado" on the label. Sure, some of the fun of drinking certain wines is what is on the label, but if you eliminate preconceived notions about the region by hiding the label, I am quite confident that Colorado's best wines can compete with the world's best wines. I've done it time and time again. And I will continue to do so to prove my point. However, even the blind tasting I am sharing with you now surprised me.
A few months ago, my tasting group decided on 2003 Bordeaux as our next theme. Bordeaux produces perhaps the best known and most sought after wines (both red and white) in the world. Bordeaux is a large and complex region, but to simplify things, it is often thought of in two terms: the Left Bank and the Right Bank. The banks refer to the side of the Gironde estuary (where the Garonne and Dordogne rivers merge) on which the vineyards lie. Wines from the Right Bank are generally velvety merlot-based wines. The Left Bank wines are made mostly from cabernet sauvignon and considered by many to be more structured, long aged and generally more prestigious. They are so highly regarded that in 1855, the merchants of Bordeaux classified the châteaux of the Left Bank into a five tier hierarchy based on quality and price that remains little changed to this day. At the top are the First Growths that command hundreds, if not thousands of dollars per bottle. A total of only 61 Bordeaux châteaux of nearly 10,000 are now a part of this classification. These classified Bordeaux châteaux are the yardstick by which all other cabernet sauvignon are measured. I thought that this would be a great opportunity to see how Colorado wine at its best compares with the top wines in the world.
The lineup did not include any of the super expensive First Growths, but it did have some pretty big names from the Left Bank (and the vintage wasn't too shabby either). Everyone gathered at our new house and brown bagged 7 bottles of classified Bordeaux, plus a few ringers to keep us honest. No one knew all of the wines in the lineup, but we knew many of the names that were hidden from view. Paired with a top sirloin steak and a round eye roast, we had a grand time tasting through the flight. Only one bottle disappointed (and even that was contentious, but more on that later), and a few surprised when the labels were revealed. After the Bordeaux flight, a generous guest opened two other big red gems and then we sipped on a variety of dessert wines. Overall, it was quite a night!
The Bordeaux-themed flight included ten wines ranging in price from $30-$300 and were from Bordeaux, Napa Valley, Washington and, of course, Colorado. The tasting notes are mine, and I will note my ranking of the wines as well as the group's.
Wine 1: This shows a little bit of volatile acidity and is a bit funky. Some nice cigar box and cherries are on the nose. Flavors of sour cherry and green olive are most prominent, but overall this one is rather light and fades quickly. My least favorite if you don't count the corked bottle. Average
Wine 2: This is a big wine. Lots of dark fruit, cassis, and tobacco. Nice, but does not stand out as special. Good/Very Good
Wine 3: Another big wine. Red fruit and leather on the nose lead to molasses, spices, dark fruits and smooth tannins on the palate. This is a thick and aggressive wine that is probably still young. Very Good/Excellent
Wine 4: Wow. Loads of fruit on both the nose and mouth. This thing is complex. Fruit, violets and vanilla keep lingering on the long finish. This was the first wine I went back to revisit. My wine of the night. Excellent/Outstanding
Wine 5: Another lovely wine. This is the first to be a bit green and have a slightly metallic nose, but the smooth tannins, typical cab flavors of currant and tobacco and exceptionally long finish make this one to remember. Not as fruity as the others, but still a typical Bordeaux. My number two of the night. Excellent
Wine 6: This wine is full of pepper and smoke. It is a lot lighter on the palate than the others. Unfortunately, it falls apart in the mouth way too quickly. Good
Wine 7: Back to the good stuff. Lots of red and black fruits are on both the nose and palate, but this is the first to show nice herbs of sage and tea. It goes down very smooth. Not too complex, but a very nice wine. My third choice of the night. Very Good/Excellent
Wine 8: The first thing I notice is the alcohol. It tastes very New World; like a buttery blackberry liqueur. Decent, but a bit too much for me at this point. Good/Very Good
Wine 9: Corked. Offensive nose and TCA is the first thing that comes to mind for me. The group had a discussion and several people were adamant that it wasn't corked, just a bit bretty. It tastes better than it smells, but still shows only earth, leather, mushrooms and no fruit. My least favorite, but I still stand by my assessment of it being corked. NR
Wine 10: This is a big fruity lollipop. It is thin, simple and slightly metallic, but fun to drink. Nothing special. Good
Top Wines of the Night as voted by the group:
#1: Wine 5 (5 first place votes, 1 second)
#2: Wine 4 (3 first place votes, 1 second, 1 third)
#3: Wine 3 (1 first place vote, 3 third)
Find out the identities after the jump...
A few months ago, my tasting group decided on 2003 Bordeaux as our next theme. Bordeaux produces perhaps the best known and most sought after wines (both red and white) in the world. Bordeaux is a large and complex region, but to simplify things, it is often thought of in two terms: the Left Bank and the Right Bank. The banks refer to the side of the Gironde estuary (where the Garonne and Dordogne rivers merge) on which the vineyards lie. Wines from the Right Bank are generally velvety merlot-based wines. The Left Bank wines are made mostly from cabernet sauvignon and considered by many to be more structured, long aged and generally more prestigious. They are so highly regarded that in 1855, the merchants of Bordeaux classified the châteaux of the Left Bank into a five tier hierarchy based on quality and price that remains little changed to this day. At the top are the First Growths that command hundreds, if not thousands of dollars per bottle. A total of only 61 Bordeaux châteaux of nearly 10,000 are now a part of this classification. These classified Bordeaux châteaux are the yardstick by which all other cabernet sauvignon are measured. I thought that this would be a great opportunity to see how Colorado wine at its best compares with the top wines in the world.
The lineup did not include any of the super expensive First Growths, but it did have some pretty big names from the Left Bank (and the vintage wasn't too shabby either). Everyone gathered at our new house and brown bagged 7 bottles of classified Bordeaux, plus a few ringers to keep us honest. No one knew all of the wines in the lineup, but we knew many of the names that were hidden from view. Paired with a top sirloin steak and a round eye roast, we had a grand time tasting through the flight. Only one bottle disappointed (and even that was contentious, but more on that later), and a few surprised when the labels were revealed. After the Bordeaux flight, a generous guest opened two other big red gems and then we sipped on a variety of dessert wines. Overall, it was quite a night!
The Bordeaux-themed flight included ten wines ranging in price from $30-$300 and were from Bordeaux, Napa Valley, Washington and, of course, Colorado. The tasting notes are mine, and I will note my ranking of the wines as well as the group's.
Wine 1: This shows a little bit of volatile acidity and is a bit funky. Some nice cigar box and cherries are on the nose. Flavors of sour cherry and green olive are most prominent, but overall this one is rather light and fades quickly. My least favorite if you don't count the corked bottle. Average
Wine 2: This is a big wine. Lots of dark fruit, cassis, and tobacco. Nice, but does not stand out as special. Good/Very Good
Wine 3: Another big wine. Red fruit and leather on the nose lead to molasses, spices, dark fruits and smooth tannins on the palate. This is a thick and aggressive wine that is probably still young. Very Good/Excellent
Wine 4: Wow. Loads of fruit on both the nose and mouth. This thing is complex. Fruit, violets and vanilla keep lingering on the long finish. This was the first wine I went back to revisit. My wine of the night. Excellent/Outstanding
Wine 5: Another lovely wine. This is the first to be a bit green and have a slightly metallic nose, but the smooth tannins, typical cab flavors of currant and tobacco and exceptionally long finish make this one to remember. Not as fruity as the others, but still a typical Bordeaux. My number two of the night. Excellent
Wine 6: This wine is full of pepper and smoke. It is a lot lighter on the palate than the others. Unfortunately, it falls apart in the mouth way too quickly. Good
Wine 7: Back to the good stuff. Lots of red and black fruits are on both the nose and palate, but this is the first to show nice herbs of sage and tea. It goes down very smooth. Not too complex, but a very nice wine. My third choice of the night. Very Good/Excellent
Wine 8: The first thing I notice is the alcohol. It tastes very New World; like a buttery blackberry liqueur. Decent, but a bit too much for me at this point. Good/Very Good
Wine 9: Corked. Offensive nose and TCA is the first thing that comes to mind for me. The group had a discussion and several people were adamant that it wasn't corked, just a bit bretty. It tastes better than it smells, but still shows only earth, leather, mushrooms and no fruit. My least favorite, but I still stand by my assessment of it being corked. NR
Wine 10: This is a big fruity lollipop. It is thin, simple and slightly metallic, but fun to drink. Nothing special. Good
Top Wines of the Night as voted by the group:
#1: Wine 5 (5 first place votes, 1 second)
#2: Wine 4 (3 first place votes, 1 second, 1 third)
#3: Wine 3 (1 first place vote, 3 third)
Find out the identities after the jump...
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
Meet the Winemaker: Jenne Baldwin-Eaton (Plum Creek Winery)
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| Jenne Baldwin-Eaton |
Wednesday, January 11, 2012
Meet the Winemaker: Theresa High (Colterris)
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| Theresa High |
Wednesday, December 28, 2011
Meet the Winemaker: Brian Stevens (Talon Wine Brands)
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| Brian Stevens |
Wednesday, December 14, 2011
Meet the Winemaker: Debra Ray (Desert Moon Vineyards)
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| Debra Ray |
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Meet the Winemaker: Michelle Cleveland (Creekside Cellars)
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| Michelle Cleveland - Creekside Cellars |
Wednesday, July 13, 2011
Let's get vertical, vertical...
Cheers to Olivia Newton John and my apologies to any who is now picturing their favorite wine pundit dancing around in a leotard and matching sweatbands.
Most wine blogs and glossies focus their efforts on tasting and reviewing current releases of wine. Furthermore, said publications tend to focus on mainstream wines. When prognostications of the ageability and drinking window of young wines are made, they tend to be based (I hope) on prior experience with how previous vintages fared. But very rarely do you see published vertical tastings of wine. Sure, Robert Parker, Jr. famously has stepped aside from the current California beat to do retrospective tastings of California. Almost always vertical tastings are solely in the realm of top producers. James Suckling recently posted a series of videos documenting his experience tasting three centuries of Chateau Latour. Richard Jennings recently tasted through aged Kistler pinot noirs and found that he did not agree with the top critics' early prognostications. Occasionally the wine gods smile on off the beaten path producers. Super-blogger Joe Roberts got in on the action and posted about his experience of tasting a vertical of Peconic Bay merlot from Long Island, New York. To my knowledge, there have been no published vertical tastings of Colorado wine. Until now.
I received a few samples of Canyon Wind Cellars cabernet and had a few bottles in my meager cellar, so I decided that I must open all five vintages at one time in order to compare them and put Colorado in the same light as first-growth Bordeaux and cult Cali pinot. I invited a few friends over to help me taste through the lineup that nearly spanned the history of the winery. I opened and double decanted all the wines an hour before being consumed. The wines were all in good shape, though the corks in the two oldest bottles broke. The five bottles were bagged, numbered and poured blind. No one knew which wine was which and the only thing that our guests knew was that the bottles were all the same variety. As we were tasting, I suspected that somehow the wines got put back in order and we were drinking them from oldest to youngest. In fact we were, with the two youngest bottles being transposed. The secondary and tertiary flavors and aromas brought out by bottle aging was quite apparent, though the youngest of the bunch was a bit of an aberration to even me. Overall, everyone was quite impressed with the quality of all the wines. Though one common theme amongst my casual wine drinking friends was the unanimous surprise that all the wine was the same grape and from the same producer but tasted vastly different. My notes (I was the only one to take notes) along with the group rankings are below:
1997 Canyon Wind Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Valley AVA, Colorado
The first wine in the lineup is dark red in color with a little bit of bricking at the rim. Aromas of cherry and black currants are balanced by lovely tobacco and cedar. Smooth on the palate, smooth red and black fruits are complemented with lovely secondary flavors of tobacco and tea leaf. This wine is well balanced and complex and could easily pass as a fourth or fifth growth Bordeaux. It is ready to go and should probably be consumed in the next few years before the fruit starts to fade. My favorite wine of the flight, but the group's #2. 13.8% abv Sample $50. Very Good/Excellent (tasted 7/8/11)
2000 Canyon Wind Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Valley AVA, Colorado
The second wine is clearly younger than the previous wine. Dark red with no bricking, this wine is much fruitier. Sweet cherries and raspberries and dark chocolate dominate the nose. It shows a spiciness that wine #1 did not have. Jammy blackberries, black cherries, bittersweet chocolate, pencil lead and some glycerol make this wine much more Californian in style than the previous one. The alcohol is noticeable, but not off-putting. Young but still enjoyable, I think this one has enough fruit to age a few more years. My and the group's #3 wine of the night.14.2% abv Purchased $24. Good/Very Good (tasted 7/8/11)
2003 Canyon Wind Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Valley AVA, Colorado
Wine #3 was very similar to wine #2, but with one exception. Blackberries, cassis and cigar box on the nose screamed cabernet. The dark raspberries, currants, and smokey tobacco were enjoyable on the palate, but the mouth-puckering tannins and short finish kept this one from being as enjoyable as the others. This one is built to age and should be given time or a generous amount of time in a decanter. Did not impress too many of us, especially compared to the top 2 wines. This one was my and the group's #4 of the night.13.5% abv Purchased $24. Good (tasted 7/8/11)
2005 Canyon Wind Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Valley AVA, Colorado
Jumping ahead to the last wine of the night, this one was a stark contrast to the first wine. This wine is extremely dark purple. Aromas of black fruits, mocha, graphite and cedar fill the glass. Good fruit flavors of currants, raspberries and plums are met with hints of cedar and tobacco along with a good dollop of vanilla. Smooth, yet with assertive tannins, I think that this wine could be a good ringer in a flight of more expensive Napa cabs. My #2 of the night (by a hair), but the group's wine of the night.13.3% abv Sample $26. Very Good (tasted 7/8/11)
2006 Canyon Wind Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Valley AVA, Colorado
A bit of an aberration from the others, this wine was poured just before the 2005. Beautiful bright red/purple colors in the glass, this wine is all fruit. Cherries and strawberries and a bit of heat on the nose, this smells quite similar to a red Jolly rancher. Just as fruity on the palate, if I had no idea what this wine was I would peg it as an Australian grenache. This wine may not have the structure to age, but the bright fruits make this good to drink right now.13.9% abv Sample $26. Good (tasted 7/8/11)
Most wine blogs and glossies focus their efforts on tasting and reviewing current releases of wine. Furthermore, said publications tend to focus on mainstream wines. When prognostications of the ageability and drinking window of young wines are made, they tend to be based (I hope) on prior experience with how previous vintages fared. But very rarely do you see published vertical tastings of wine. Sure, Robert Parker, Jr. famously has stepped aside from the current California beat to do retrospective tastings of California. Almost always vertical tastings are solely in the realm of top producers. James Suckling recently posted a series of videos documenting his experience tasting three centuries of Chateau Latour. Richard Jennings recently tasted through aged Kistler pinot noirs and found that he did not agree with the top critics' early prognostications. Occasionally the wine gods smile on off the beaten path producers. Super-blogger Joe Roberts got in on the action and posted about his experience of tasting a vertical of Peconic Bay merlot from Long Island, New York. To my knowledge, there have been no published vertical tastings of Colorado wine. Until now.
I received a few samples of Canyon Wind Cellars cabernet and had a few bottles in my meager cellar, so I decided that I must open all five vintages at one time in order to compare them and put Colorado in the same light as first-growth Bordeaux and cult Cali pinot. I invited a few friends over to help me taste through the lineup that nearly spanned the history of the winery. I opened and double decanted all the wines an hour before being consumed. The wines were all in good shape, though the corks in the two oldest bottles broke. The five bottles were bagged, numbered and poured blind. No one knew which wine was which and the only thing that our guests knew was that the bottles were all the same variety. As we were tasting, I suspected that somehow the wines got put back in order and we were drinking them from oldest to youngest. In fact we were, with the two youngest bottles being transposed. The secondary and tertiary flavors and aromas brought out by bottle aging was quite apparent, though the youngest of the bunch was a bit of an aberration to even me. Overall, everyone was quite impressed with the quality of all the wines. Though one common theme amongst my casual wine drinking friends was the unanimous surprise that all the wine was the same grape and from the same producer but tasted vastly different. My notes (I was the only one to take notes) along with the group rankings are below:
1997 Canyon Wind Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Valley AVA, Colorado
The first wine in the lineup is dark red in color with a little bit of bricking at the rim. Aromas of cherry and black currants are balanced by lovely tobacco and cedar. Smooth on the palate, smooth red and black fruits are complemented with lovely secondary flavors of tobacco and tea leaf. This wine is well balanced and complex and could easily pass as a fourth or fifth growth Bordeaux. It is ready to go and should probably be consumed in the next few years before the fruit starts to fade. My favorite wine of the flight, but the group's #2. 13.8% abv Sample $50. Very Good/Excellent (tasted 7/8/11)2000 Canyon Wind Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Valley AVA, Colorado
The second wine is clearly younger than the previous wine. Dark red with no bricking, this wine is much fruitier. Sweet cherries and raspberries and dark chocolate dominate the nose. It shows a spiciness that wine #1 did not have. Jammy blackberries, black cherries, bittersweet chocolate, pencil lead and some glycerol make this wine much more Californian in style than the previous one. The alcohol is noticeable, but not off-putting. Young but still enjoyable, I think this one has enough fruit to age a few more years. My and the group's #3 wine of the night.14.2% abv Purchased $24. Good/Very Good (tasted 7/8/11)2003 Canyon Wind Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Valley AVA, Colorado
Wine #3 was very similar to wine #2, but with one exception. Blackberries, cassis and cigar box on the nose screamed cabernet. The dark raspberries, currants, and smokey tobacco were enjoyable on the palate, but the mouth-puckering tannins and short finish kept this one from being as enjoyable as the others. This one is built to age and should be given time or a generous amount of time in a decanter. Did not impress too many of us, especially compared to the top 2 wines. This one was my and the group's #4 of the night.13.5% abv Purchased $24. Good (tasted 7/8/11)2005 Canyon Wind Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Valley AVA, Colorado
Jumping ahead to the last wine of the night, this one was a stark contrast to the first wine. This wine is extremely dark purple. Aromas of black fruits, mocha, graphite and cedar fill the glass. Good fruit flavors of currants, raspberries and plums are met with hints of cedar and tobacco along with a good dollop of vanilla. Smooth, yet with assertive tannins, I think that this wine could be a good ringer in a flight of more expensive Napa cabs. My #2 of the night (by a hair), but the group's wine of the night.13.3% abv Sample $26. Very Good (tasted 7/8/11)2006 Canyon Wind Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grand Valley AVA, Colorado
A bit of an aberration from the others, this wine was poured just before the 2005. Beautiful bright red/purple colors in the glass, this wine is all fruit. Cherries and strawberries and a bit of heat on the nose, this smells quite similar to a red Jolly rancher. Just as fruity on the palate, if I had no idea what this wine was I would peg it as an Australian grenache. This wine may not have the structure to age, but the bright fruits make this good to drink right now.13.9% abv Sample $26. Good (tasted 7/8/11)
Thursday, July 7, 2011
5 ways to improve Colorado wine
On Sunday, Jon Bonné suggested five ways to improve California wine in the San Francisco Chronicle. While most American wineries not in California try to emulate their Golden State counterparts, all wine regions could use suggestions for improvement. A few weeks ago, I made a similar list directed at Colorado's wine consumers. While I make no assumptions that I have the same credibility as Bonné, I would like to replicate his recommendations to wineries with a Centennial State twist. Here are five ways that Colorado's vintners can carve a better path to the future.
1. Become students of the wine world. I was surprised during a conversation with a winemaker who produces tempranillo that he was unaware of the specific wine regions in Spain that grow the grape. Other winemakers only drink what they make and nothing else. However, to make the best wine possible, winemakers need to taste as much wine as possible from around the world. Everyone associated with Colorado wine needs to learn as much about wine as they can. I don't mean that everyone should strive to be Masters of Wine or Helen Turley-esque winemakers, but understanding the history and geography of the wine world will give credibility to the Colorado wine industry. That is why I do not limit myself to only Colorado wines. There is a whole world of wine out there that shouldn't be ignored.
2. Make fewer wines. I've had this discussion with more than a few winemakers; Colorado wineries make too many wines. Almost every winery produces a cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, syrah, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, riesling, a sweet rosé and a dessert/fortified wine. Most wineries in France and the boutique California wineries produce just a handful of wines if not only one or two. While I do believe that Colorado wineries can produce all of those wines well, one winery cannot. Wineries should specialize and go for depth instead of breadth. Certain wineries should focus on making Bordeaux-style wines whereas others should concentrate on Rhône varieties. While they may not be able to please every group of tourists that want to try a cabernet, a sweet rosé and a chardonnay, wineries should be producing better overall quality wines.
3. Embrace Hybrids and non-traditional grape cultivars. I know that I just suggested making fewer wines, but Colorado wineries need to consider using hybrids and other non-traditional grapes. If wineries are afraid of consumers not accepting oddly named grapes, then they need to be more creative! Using fanciful names for wines instead of varietally labeled wines could prove a boon to get new wine drinkers drinking Colorado wine. In fact, one of the most popular Colorado wines, Tyranosaurus Red, is made from the uncommon Lemberger. Also, using these types of grapes could greatly increase the productive vineyard acreage allowing even more wine to be made.
4. Get on more restaurant lists. To date, only one winery has been successful with this arduous endeavor. Sure, some restaurants have a token Colorado wine on their list, but The Infinite Monkey Theorem is on more wine lists than any other winery. Wine drinkers often find new wines on restaurant wine lists and go to retailers to purchase these wines. Wineries don't necessarily make money from restaurants, and in fact most have to lower their wholesale cost to get onto restaurant lists. Wineries need to consider restaurant wine lists as marketing expenses rather than revenue generating opportunities. When consumers see that restaurant sommeliers accept local vino, they may be more apt to as well.
5. Apply for more AVAs. Other states ahead of Colorado in the production and quality curve are also ahead of us in the AVA curve. McElmo Canyon in the Four Corners region, Redlands Mesa and Orchard City west of the West Elks AVA and the vineyards along the Arkansas River near Cañon City all would make ideal candidates for federal designation as viticultural areas. Avid wine drinkers tend to give more respect to wines from specific AVAs rather than broad state designations. Most oenophiles would pick an Oakville cabernet sauvignon over a generic California cabernet or a Dundee Hills pinot noir over a simple Oregon pinot. It is unlikely that most consumers even know about the two AVAs we have, but when a state has more than a handful of designated viticultural areas you know that there is a strong quality wine industry (or savvy politicians if you're from Italy).
If even a few wineries heed these suggestions, I believe that the Colorado wine industry will be well on its way to winning the hearts and minds of Colorado residents and competing with the bigger and more famous wine regions.
1. Become students of the wine world. I was surprised during a conversation with a winemaker who produces tempranillo that he was unaware of the specific wine regions in Spain that grow the grape. Other winemakers only drink what they make and nothing else. However, to make the best wine possible, winemakers need to taste as much wine as possible from around the world. Everyone associated with Colorado wine needs to learn as much about wine as they can. I don't mean that everyone should strive to be Masters of Wine or Helen Turley-esque winemakers, but understanding the history and geography of the wine world will give credibility to the Colorado wine industry. That is why I do not limit myself to only Colorado wines. There is a whole world of wine out there that shouldn't be ignored.
2. Make fewer wines. I've had this discussion with more than a few winemakers; Colorado wineries make too many wines. Almost every winery produces a cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, syrah, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, riesling, a sweet rosé and a dessert/fortified wine. Most wineries in France and the boutique California wineries produce just a handful of wines if not only one or two. While I do believe that Colorado wineries can produce all of those wines well, one winery cannot. Wineries should specialize and go for depth instead of breadth. Certain wineries should focus on making Bordeaux-style wines whereas others should concentrate on Rhône varieties. While they may not be able to please every group of tourists that want to try a cabernet, a sweet rosé and a chardonnay, wineries should be producing better overall quality wines.
3. Embrace Hybrids and non-traditional grape cultivars. I know that I just suggested making fewer wines, but Colorado wineries need to consider using hybrids and other non-traditional grapes. If wineries are afraid of consumers not accepting oddly named grapes, then they need to be more creative! Using fanciful names for wines instead of varietally labeled wines could prove a boon to get new wine drinkers drinking Colorado wine. In fact, one of the most popular Colorado wines, Tyranosaurus Red, is made from the uncommon Lemberger. Also, using these types of grapes could greatly increase the productive vineyard acreage allowing even more wine to be made.
4. Get on more restaurant lists. To date, only one winery has been successful with this arduous endeavor. Sure, some restaurants have a token Colorado wine on their list, but The Infinite Monkey Theorem is on more wine lists than any other winery. Wine drinkers often find new wines on restaurant wine lists and go to retailers to purchase these wines. Wineries don't necessarily make money from restaurants, and in fact most have to lower their wholesale cost to get onto restaurant lists. Wineries need to consider restaurant wine lists as marketing expenses rather than revenue generating opportunities. When consumers see that restaurant sommeliers accept local vino, they may be more apt to as well.
5. Apply for more AVAs. Other states ahead of Colorado in the production and quality curve are also ahead of us in the AVA curve. McElmo Canyon in the Four Corners region, Redlands Mesa and Orchard City west of the West Elks AVA and the vineyards along the Arkansas River near Cañon City all would make ideal candidates for federal designation as viticultural areas. Avid wine drinkers tend to give more respect to wines from specific AVAs rather than broad state designations. Most oenophiles would pick an Oakville cabernet sauvignon over a generic California cabernet or a Dundee Hills pinot noir over a simple Oregon pinot. It is unlikely that most consumers even know about the two AVAs we have, but when a state has more than a handful of designated viticultural areas you know that there is a strong quality wine industry (or savvy politicians if you're from Italy).
If even a few wineries heed these suggestions, I believe that the Colorado wine industry will be well on its way to winning the hearts and minds of Colorado residents and competing with the bigger and more famous wine regions.
Sunday, July 3, 2011
Ben's Bubbly: The Infinite Monkey Theorem Carbonated Black Muscat
This week was a week of firsts! With not even three moons under his belt, Ben has learned to roll over from front to back. He did it three times early last week while I was at work. He did not repeat the feat for me to witness for two more days. Now, as long as he is in a good mood, if we put him on his stomach we are almost guaranteed to see him make it to his back once or twice. He likes showing off his new abilities and smiles when we cheer his accomplishment.
We also went over to my father-in-law's house for his 60th birthday party this weekend and Ben loved being the center of attention. He was hamming it up smiling, laughing and babbling for anyone who even glimpsed in his direction. He was so excited that he did not want to take a nap and was thus exhausted later that night. He did catch up with a marathon sleeping session.
Another Denver Ben also had a "first" this past week. Ben Parsons of The Infinite Monkey Theorem released the state's first canned wine on July 1. While he treated a privileged group to a pre-release party at the Smuggler Mine during the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen 2011, last Friday was the official release of the carbonated black muscat in 250 mL aluminum cans at the winery in Denver. I was unable to attend either of the festivities, but did score a can of the much anticipated wine.
2010 The Infinite Monkey Theorem, Carbonated Black Muscat, Grand Valley AVA, Colorado
Ten thousand 250-mL cans were produced of this peony pink-colored sparkling wine. Not produced in the traditional méthode Champenoise (what, no cans in Champagne?), the bubbles dissipate rather quickly after being poured into a wine glass. Best to drink this straight out of the can. Beautiful aromas of roses and grapefruit rise from the glass as I raise it to my mouth. The 6.8% residual sugar is noticeable as it passes my lips. If Jelly Belly had a black muscat flavor, this would be it. It tastes like a mix of canned lychees in syrup, grapefruit with brown sugar broiled on top and a bouquet of summery flowers. This wine in a can is sure to be a hit with the under-thirty crowd in Denver and sell out rather quickly with less than 300 cases (750 mL equivalent) produced. If you like Red Bull and vodka, this wine will give you wings. 10.4% abv Sample. Very Good (tasted 6/30/11)
We also went over to my father-in-law's house for his 60th birthday party this weekend and Ben loved being the center of attention. He was hamming it up smiling, laughing and babbling for anyone who even glimpsed in his direction. He was so excited that he did not want to take a nap and was thus exhausted later that night. He did catch up with a marathon sleeping session.
Another Denver Ben also had a "first" this past week. Ben Parsons of The Infinite Monkey Theorem released the state's first canned wine on July 1. While he treated a privileged group to a pre-release party at the Smuggler Mine during the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen 2011, last Friday was the official release of the carbonated black muscat in 250 mL aluminum cans at the winery in Denver. I was unable to attend either of the festivities, but did score a can of the much anticipated wine.
2010 The Infinite Monkey Theorem, Carbonated Black Muscat, Grand Valley AVA, Colorado
Thursday, June 16, 2011
More than 15 minutes of fame...
With the first-ever Colorado Wine week over, you might think that Colorado wine will return to the back shelf of the wine shop between the boxed Franzia and the mop closet. It need not be this way. With your help, we can keep Colorado wine in the spotlight. On his The Wine Spectator blog, Matt Kramer asks why doesn't eating local translate to drinking local. Colorado wine sales account for less than 2.0% of all wine sales in the state, yet countless restaurants and grocery stores actively promote their local food products. As thousands of people discovered this week, Colorado produces quality juice, so why don't more people drink it? Well, here are five ways to make Colorado wine matter in the next 51 weeks that will not be proclaimed in its honor:
1. Ask for Colorado wine in restaurants. Restaurants drive the food and beverage trends. If restaurateurs and sommeliers see the demand for local wines, they will put it on theirs lists.
2. Buy Colorado Wine. Most liquor stores have a token Colorado wine or two on their shelves, but they are usually relegated to a shelf at the back of the store. Most people don't want to buy the disgraced product that retailers won't support. If a liquor store doesn't have a Colorado wine that interests you, don't cave in and by that California Cabernet. Go to a different shop that supports our local wineries. Let your wallet speak for you and all of our local vintners.
3. Serve Colorado Wine to your friends and family. Don't just drink Colorado wine at home by yourself. When you go to dinner parties, bring a bottle of the local stuff. I've been a part of a local wine group for almost a year and each time I go, I bring a bottle (or more) of Colorado wine. These guys drink some good (and expensive) juice, but each time they are pleasantly surprised with the quality that the bottle of Colorado provides. Don't be surprised if your favorite Colorado wine is preferred over more expensive and prestigious wines. Perhaps have some fun and don't let your friends know what they're drinking. Blind tasting can remove the local wine bias some oenophiles have while training their palates. They might just be surprised when the brown bag is removed.
4. Visit a winery. Colorado Wine country is a lot closer than Napa or Bordeaux. 3.5 hours west of Denver on I-70 and you can be amongst the vines and wineries of the Grand Valley. Feeling adventurous? Visit Colorado's other American Viticultural Area around the towns of Paonia and Hotchkiss along the North Fork of the Gunnison River. If you aren't feeling up to a long drive (from the Front Range) there are almost as many wineries on this side of the mountains as the western slope. While not surrounded by vines, the urban wineries of Boulder, Denver and other Front Range cities produce quality wines.
5. Go to Winefest next year. Wine festivals come and go. If you really want to support the industry and try lots of great wines, buy a ticket as soon as they are released and help drive the number of attendees into the thousands. This support will go a long way to keeping Colorado wine in the hearts and minds of wine lovers across the state and the country!
1. Ask for Colorado wine in restaurants. Restaurants drive the food and beverage trends. If restaurateurs and sommeliers see the demand for local wines, they will put it on theirs lists.
2. Buy Colorado Wine. Most liquor stores have a token Colorado wine or two on their shelves, but they are usually relegated to a shelf at the back of the store. Most people don't want to buy the disgraced product that retailers won't support. If a liquor store doesn't have a Colorado wine that interests you, don't cave in and by that California Cabernet. Go to a different shop that supports our local wineries. Let your wallet speak for you and all of our local vintners.
3. Serve Colorado Wine to your friends and family. Don't just drink Colorado wine at home by yourself. When you go to dinner parties, bring a bottle of the local stuff. I've been a part of a local wine group for almost a year and each time I go, I bring a bottle (or more) of Colorado wine. These guys drink some good (and expensive) juice, but each time they are pleasantly surprised with the quality that the bottle of Colorado provides. Don't be surprised if your favorite Colorado wine is preferred over more expensive and prestigious wines. Perhaps have some fun and don't let your friends know what they're drinking. Blind tasting can remove the local wine bias some oenophiles have while training their palates. They might just be surprised when the brown bag is removed.
4. Visit a winery. Colorado Wine country is a lot closer than Napa or Bordeaux. 3.5 hours west of Denver on I-70 and you can be amongst the vines and wineries of the Grand Valley. Feeling adventurous? Visit Colorado's other American Viticultural Area around the towns of Paonia and Hotchkiss along the North Fork of the Gunnison River. If you aren't feeling up to a long drive (from the Front Range) there are almost as many wineries on this side of the mountains as the western slope. While not surrounded by vines, the urban wineries of Boulder, Denver and other Front Range cities produce quality wines.
5. Go to Winefest next year. Wine festivals come and go. If you really want to support the industry and try lots of great wines, buy a ticket as soon as they are released and help drive the number of attendees into the thousands. This support will go a long way to keeping Colorado wine in the hearts and minds of wine lovers across the state and the country!
Saturday, June 11, 2011
11 things you didn't know about Colorado wine
1. There are more wineries along the Front Range than in the Grand Valley.
2. Only 15 states have more American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) than Colorado.
3. Colorado is home to the highest vineyards in the North Hemisphere.
4. Winegrapes have been grown in Colorado for over 120 years.
5. Most of the grapevines in Colorado are self-rooted whereas most in California and France are grafted onto American rootstock.
6. Colorado is home to two Jefferson Cup Award-winning wines (Bookcliff Vineyards' Petite Sirah and Boulder Creek Winery's VIP Reserve)
7. The Colorado Wine Industry Development Board was created in 1990 by the Colorado General Assembly to promote and support Colorado's wine industry.
8. Merlot is the most widely planted grape in Colorado.
9. There are over 100 licensed wineries in the state (up from 40 in 2000 and 5 in 1990).
10. Meaderies, cideries and perries are considered wineries according to the Colorado liquor laws.
11. Both the Colorado Winefest in Denver and the Colorado Mountain Winefest in Palisade are fundraising events for the Colorado Association for Viticulture and Enology.
Wednesday, March 9, 2011
What grape did you say?
The wine world revolves around a few well-known grape varieties. Most people know the grapes cabernet sauvignon, merlot, syrah, pinot noir, riesling and chardonnay. When one thinks of the world's most famous wine regions, they usually produce one or more of these grapes. Colorado is no different. Merlot, riesling, cabernet sauvignon and chardonnay are Colorado's most widely planted grapes, closely followed by syrah and cabernet franc. While many excellent wines are produced from these traditional vinifera cultivars, Colorado also produces interesting wines from lesser-known grapes. Two that I have enjoyed this past week used some of these lesser-known grape varieties.
Among these lesser-known varieties include Vitis vinifera and French-American hybrids. While most people know the names of the top few grape cultivars, there are hundreds of other varieties of the traditional winemaking grape species. Usually limited to the regions in which they are native, these grapes often yield unique and high-quality wines but remain difficult to sell due to their hard to pronounce names. On the other hand, hybrid grape varieties have a bastardized reputation. Vinifera cultivars have been crossbred with other grapes species that have traits which allow them to be cultivated in cold or other marginal grape-growing regions. While they often have a poor reputation, Cornell University and other viticultural research institutions have experimented with and released cultivars that lack the negative enological characteristics and highlight the positive viticultural traits that make these grapes interesting options for wineries.
Lemberger, the vinifera grape cultivar also known as Blaufränkisch in Austria, has found a home in Colorado. The German name (Lemberger) for this grape is derived from its importation from Lemberg, in what was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire but is now Slovenia. While it is the second-most planted red grape in Austria today, Lemberger is also found in small amounts in Germany, Washington State and New York State, in addition to Colorado.
Even less common than elusive vinifera grapes, hybrids have been bred by viticulturalists to combine the pleasing flavors of Vitis vinifera with the climate-hardy and disease-resistant native American and Asiatic grape species. Hybrids such as Baco Noir, Marechal Foch and Vidal Blanc have been a part of the northeastern U.S. wine industry for decades. Foch is a inter-specific hybrid containing Vitis vinifera, Vitis raparia and Vitis rupestris heritages, that is starting to find its place in Colorado. Foch was developed in Alsace, France by Ferdinand Foch. Another hybrid found in Colorado, Corot Noir (formerly NY70) was developed by Bruce Reisch at Cornell University. While consumers may be hesitant to buy wines with lesser-known grapes, some wineries have gotten past this preconception by giving these wines fanciful names.
Carlson Vineyards of Palisade, CO opened their doors in 1988. Situated in the Grand Valley AVA, Carlson Vineyards holds the fourth-oldest winery license in the state. Carlson has fun giving their wines names inspired by local themes – like Tyrannosaurus Red and Prairie Dog Blush. The T-Red Lemberger refers to the discovery of dinosaur bones in the Grand Valley in the early 1900s. While people may not know what Lemberger is, they can easily recognize the short-armed dinosaur raising his glass on the colorful label.
Jack Rabbit Hill is another winery making use of non-traditional grapes. Located just west of the West Elks AVA on Redlands Mesa at 6200 feet above sea level, Jack Rabbit Hill makes organic and biodynamic wines from their 70-acre farm. All of their estate wines are Demeter-certified biodynamic and organic, and their non-estate wines are single-vineyard bottlings made from certified organic grapes. While most of their wines are varietally labeled, their amalgamation of estate vinifera and hybrid grapes is simply called Barn Red. The name evokes images rolling farmland and red barns with fresh and pure ingredients
2009 Carlson Vineyards Tyrannosaurus Red, Grand Valley, Colorado
This unique wine is crafted from 100% Colorado-grown Lemberger from the Grand Valley AVA. This quaffable red is almost Beaujolais-like with very fruity and bubblegum-like aromas. Showing a light-bodied fruitiness, with light tannins and a slight pepperiness, this wine is an interesting, easy-drinking wine that that should be added to your summer drinking list. 14.4% abv Gift from family $13. Good (tasted 3/5/11)
2008 Jack Rabbit Hill Barn Red, Colorado Red Wine
This blend of malbec, marechal foch, petit verdot, cabernet franc and NY70 (corot noir) uses two French-American hybrids; Marechal Foch and Corot Noir. Grown on Jack Rabbit Hill, at approximately 6200 ft of elevation, near the small town of Hotchkiss, this collection of grapes leads to an inky purple wine that yield interesting aromas that include dark fruit and a slight pepperiness. On the palate, the wine is lighter than one would guess based on the color. It is earthy, but with black and blue fruit flavors combined with smooth tannins and a long finish. All I can say is yum! 13.5% abv Purchased $16. Good/Very Good (tasted 3/8/11)
Among these lesser-known varieties include Vitis vinifera and French-American hybrids. While most people know the names of the top few grape cultivars, there are hundreds of other varieties of the traditional winemaking grape species. Usually limited to the regions in which they are native, these grapes often yield unique and high-quality wines but remain difficult to sell due to their hard to pronounce names. On the other hand, hybrid grape varieties have a bastardized reputation. Vinifera cultivars have been crossbred with other grapes species that have traits which allow them to be cultivated in cold or other marginal grape-growing regions. While they often have a poor reputation, Cornell University and other viticultural research institutions have experimented with and released cultivars that lack the negative enological characteristics and highlight the positive viticultural traits that make these grapes interesting options for wineries.
Lemberger, the vinifera grape cultivar also known as Blaufränkisch in Austria, has found a home in Colorado. The German name (Lemberger) for this grape is derived from its importation from Lemberg, in what was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire but is now Slovenia. While it is the second-most planted red grape in Austria today, Lemberger is also found in small amounts in Germany, Washington State and New York State, in addition to Colorado.
Even less common than elusive vinifera grapes, hybrids have been bred by viticulturalists to combine the pleasing flavors of Vitis vinifera with the climate-hardy and disease-resistant native American and Asiatic grape species. Hybrids such as Baco Noir, Marechal Foch and Vidal Blanc have been a part of the northeastern U.S. wine industry for decades. Foch is a inter-specific hybrid containing Vitis vinifera, Vitis raparia and Vitis rupestris heritages, that is starting to find its place in Colorado. Foch was developed in Alsace, France by Ferdinand Foch. Another hybrid found in Colorado, Corot Noir (formerly NY70) was developed by Bruce Reisch at Cornell University. While consumers may be hesitant to buy wines with lesser-known grapes, some wineries have gotten past this preconception by giving these wines fanciful names.
Carlson Vineyards of Palisade, CO opened their doors in 1988. Situated in the Grand Valley AVA, Carlson Vineyards holds the fourth-oldest winery license in the state. Carlson has fun giving their wines names inspired by local themes – like Tyrannosaurus Red and Prairie Dog Blush. The T-Red Lemberger refers to the discovery of dinosaur bones in the Grand Valley in the early 1900s. While people may not know what Lemberger is, they can easily recognize the short-armed dinosaur raising his glass on the colorful label.
Jack Rabbit Hill is another winery making use of non-traditional grapes. Located just west of the West Elks AVA on Redlands Mesa at 6200 feet above sea level, Jack Rabbit Hill makes organic and biodynamic wines from their 70-acre farm. All of their estate wines are Demeter-certified biodynamic and organic, and their non-estate wines are single-vineyard bottlings made from certified organic grapes. While most of their wines are varietally labeled, their amalgamation of estate vinifera and hybrid grapes is simply called Barn Red. The name evokes images rolling farmland and red barns with fresh and pure ingredients
2009 Carlson Vineyards Tyrannosaurus Red, Grand Valley, ColoradoThis unique wine is crafted from 100% Colorado-grown Lemberger from the Grand Valley AVA. This quaffable red is almost Beaujolais-like with very fruity and bubblegum-like aromas. Showing a light-bodied fruitiness, with light tannins and a slight pepperiness, this wine is an interesting, easy-drinking wine that that should be added to your summer drinking list. 14.4% abv Gift from family $13. Good (tasted 3/5/11)
2008 Jack Rabbit Hill Barn Red, Colorado Red Wine
This blend of malbec, marechal foch, petit verdot, cabernet franc and NY70 (corot noir) uses two French-American hybrids; Marechal Foch and Corot Noir. Grown on Jack Rabbit Hill, at approximately 6200 ft of elevation, near the small town of Hotchkiss, this collection of grapes leads to an inky purple wine that yield interesting aromas that include dark fruit and a slight pepperiness. On the palate, the wine is lighter than one would guess based on the color. It is earthy, but with black and blue fruit flavors combined with smooth tannins and a long finish. All I can say is yum! 13.5% abv Purchased $16. Good/Very Good (tasted 3/8/11)
Friday, February 11, 2011
Unique terroir
While most people are not cognizant of the fact that there is a high-quality wine industry present in Colorado, those who are will be quick to point out that it is centered on the western side of the state in and around the town of Palisade in the Grand Valley. A majority of the approximately 100 wineries located around the state have their vineyards or buy grapes from growers in the Grand Valley. Despite Palisade being the locus for vineyards, the Front Range (in and around Denver), is actually where about half of the state's licensed wineries call home. Why so far away from "wine country?," most people ask. The population of the Grand Junction Metropolitan Statistical Area is approximately 146,000, whereas the population of the Denver-Aurora-Boulder Combined Statistical Area is over 20 times larger with about 3,110,000 people. The consumer market is larger along the Front Range, so wineries find it easier to market their products when closer to a larger audience.
Unfortunately, the climate of the Front Range is not conducive to growing Vitis vinifera. However, while several growers are experimenting with French-American hybrids, one winery has produced traditional vinifera wines from a small vineyard in north Denver. J. A. Balistreri Vineyards buys most of their grapes from western Colorado, but occasionally bottles limited-release wines from grapes harvested near the winery in Denver. Julie Balistreri told me that they did not get any Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from the Denver Vineyard in 2009 or 2010, but when they do, as in 2008, they have fun making a barrel or two of unique wine.
Most Balistreri wines that I have tried (and I have not tried all of their offerings) tend to be big, bold and fruit forward reds and whites fermented on their skins. The wines are single-vineyard designated and bottled and labeled one barrel at a time. Each individual barrel number is hand-stamped on the back of each bottle. This approach provides an interesting way to experience terroir and barrel variations.
2008 J. A. Balistreri Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Barrel 193, Denver Vineyard, Colorado
This Cabernet Sauvignon differs in style from many of Balistreri's reds. It is an opaque dark red color and stains the glass as you swirl it. It is not especially fruit forward, yet dark fruits, mainly cassis and dark strawberries, are noticeable. Old-world aromas of earth, leather and truffles are also present. This mouth-filling wine has medium-plus tannins combined with dark chocolate, black cherries, smoke and tobacco on the palate. The finish is a nice, medium length. The 15% alcohol is not noticeable. Overall, this is a nice, balanced Cabernet that is not overly concentrated and very traditionally styled. It is not going to change your life, yet it is a fun curiosity with an interesting narrative. 15% abv Sample $24. Good (tasted 2/09/11)
Unfortunately, the climate of the Front Range is not conducive to growing Vitis vinifera. However, while several growers are experimenting with French-American hybrids, one winery has produced traditional vinifera wines from a small vineyard in north Denver. J. A. Balistreri Vineyards buys most of their grapes from western Colorado, but occasionally bottles limited-release wines from grapes harvested near the winery in Denver. Julie Balistreri told me that they did not get any Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from the Denver Vineyard in 2009 or 2010, but when they do, as in 2008, they have fun making a barrel or two of unique wine.
Most Balistreri wines that I have tried (and I have not tried all of their offerings) tend to be big, bold and fruit forward reds and whites fermented on their skins. The wines are single-vineyard designated and bottled and labeled one barrel at a time. Each individual barrel number is hand-stamped on the back of each bottle. This approach provides an interesting way to experience terroir and barrel variations.
2008 J. A. Balistreri Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, Barrel 193, Denver Vineyard, ColoradoThis Cabernet Sauvignon differs in style from many of Balistreri's reds. It is an opaque dark red color and stains the glass as you swirl it. It is not especially fruit forward, yet dark fruits, mainly cassis and dark strawberries, are noticeable. Old-world aromas of earth, leather and truffles are also present. This mouth-filling wine has medium-plus tannins combined with dark chocolate, black cherries, smoke and tobacco on the palate. The finish is a nice, medium length. The 15% alcohol is not noticeable. Overall, this is a nice, balanced Cabernet that is not overly concentrated and very traditionally styled. It is not going to change your life, yet it is a fun curiosity with an interesting narrative. 15% abv Sample $24. Good (tasted 2/09/11)
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