A Once in a Lifetime Visit Behind Closed Gates at Bodegas Vega Sicilia

Passing through a guarded gate, my wife and I, on an anniversary trip to Spain, entered the bucolic 1000-hectare estate of the storied Vega Sicilia. This Bordeaux-style winery, founded in 1864, originally was a small village inhabited by the wineries’ employees and connected by rail to Valladolid, 40 kilometers to the west. We walked by the façade of a chapel that was built for the employees and residents, accompanied by Puri Mancebo, Export Manager at Grupo Vega Sicilia, for a private tour of these hallowed grounds.

The Álvarez family, with Pablo Álvarez as director of the winery operations, purchased Vega Sicilia in 1982—the same year that Ribera del Duero achieved Denominación de Origen (D.O.) status. Vega Sicilia makes only three wines: Valbuena 5° is aged 5 years (the five is used to differentiate from the now extinct Valbuena 3°); Unico, made only in exceptional years, is aged a minimum of 10 years; and Reserva Especial is a house-styled blend of three vintages of past Unico releases and is an homage to the traditional-style Ribera del Duero wines. They are all celebrated examples of a special tempranillo clone with smaller amounts of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and malbec from 200 hectares of estate vines.

You can read the rest of this story at Palate Press

Summer of Colorado?

In today's NY Times, Frank Bruni wrote about sommelier Paul Grieco's interesting wine proposition for this summer: The Summer of Riesling. In short, Paul decided that he would change the wine menu at Terroir, in NYC, to only include Rieslings in the wine by the glass selections. If you want a Chardonnay: buy a bottle. If you want a Merlot: buy a bottle. Paul's goal with this endeavor is to educate the public about the differences and nuances of the noble Riesling. Many people believe that all Riesling is sweet uncomplicated wine. While Riesling is responsible for much lackluster sweet fermented juice, it is also responsible for some of the world's most highly prized and expensive sweet wines. Surprisingly to some, but not all, Riesling can also be a esoteric dry wine. The sugar, acidity, and aromatics of Riesling allow this single grape variety to be made into a plethora of styles! Germany, France, New York, and even Colorado produce wines along this spectrum that are sure to find a place within your palate; so give a Riesling a try.

Back to the original impetus for this post! Paul Grieco was bold enough to force patrons at his restaurant to buy only a particular wine by the glass. So many restaurants and retail stores do the exact opposite. They buy the brands that the distributors want them to buy and then turn around and sell these, often, dull wines to the public. In the wine industry, it is often said that regional (in the US this means wines NOT from California, Oregon, Washington and those on the east coast, New York) wines are difficult to sell because either the quality is low or the public has no demand for wines from terra igncognita. However, examples can be found all across this country that shoot holes in this argument. Just last week, I was dining with Jeff Siegel, aka The Wine Curmudgeon, at Jonesy's Eatbar in Denver and we discussed the idea of "locavore" restaurants not serving local wines. As both Jeff and I have posted, Jonesy's serves, almost exclusively, Colorado microbrews. While Colorado Wines are not a majority on the wine list, they are present in more than just token numbers.

What if a restaurant put Paul Grieco's and Jonesy's ideas together and took it a step further? Could a restaurant flourish by only serving Colorado Wines on its wine list? Could a happy middle be reached with only CO wines available by the glass? Would patrons stop dining if they couldn't find their favorite bottle of Clos du Bois hiding amongst a bunch of Argentinian, Australian and Spanish wines that are nothing but international? Don't get me wrong, I enjoy wines from all over the world (Spanish wines would have to be at or near the top of my list). Are local wines hard to sell because restaurants and retailers don't actually TRY to sell them? I think that if a restaurant that prides itself on using as many local ingredients and foods as possible took the initiative to devote itself to this idea it would work, and work well, with CO wines. Afterall, wine is and should be thought of as a food.

Certified Specialist of Wine, part 2

With three weeks until I take the CSW exam, I am reading about wine several hours everyday. I've made my way through the wine regions that I am familiar with (France, Spain, Portugal and Italy) and starting on the regions that I am less familiar with (Germany, Austria, Hungary, Greece, Australia) before I finish up with the Americas. I am confident that I will get through everything and do well on the exam, but will have to wait until October to find out the results.

In addition to reading about wine regions that I know little about, I had a wine this past weekend that I've never even heard of before. This interesting wine was a 2008 Welschriesling made by Leo Hillinger from Austria. Not related to the eponymous Riesling that most people know (love it or hate it), this grape can be found in central and eastern Europe (Austria, Slovenia, Croatia, Hungary, etc). I didn't take notes, as we were eating dinner, but I remember it tasting of crisp green apple and cast iron skillet (not in a bad way). As I learn more about unique and interesting wine regions I look forward to trying more indigenous grapes not found regularly in the U.S.

Back to the CSW exam, how did you fare on the sample exam questions from the previous post? Ready to try your hand at the second half? Answers to the first half appear below.

11. Which of the following AVAs has the hottest climate?

a. Paso Robles
b. Puget Sound
c. Rogue Valley
d. Russian River Valley

12. If a Chilean wine contains a vintage on the label, what percentage of the grapes must come from that vintage?

a. 75%
b. 85%
c. 95%
d. 100%

13. All of the following are reasons to add SO2 to grape must EXCEPT:

a. to inhibit wild yeast fermentation
b. to prevent browning
c. to slow the growth of spoilage bacteria
d. to break down cellulose and speed up fermentation and color extraction

14. The grape used to make a dark, sweet dessert wine of the same name from Greece is:

a. Mavrodaphne
b. Xinomavro
c. Roditis
d. Moschofilero

15. Marlborough, New Zealand is located:

a. on the south end of the South Island
b. on the north end of the North Island
c. in the northeast of the South Island
d. in the southwest of the North Island

16. Pinotage is:

a. widely grown in South Africa and Southern France
b. a hybrid of Pinot Noir and Steen
c. a crossing of Pinot Noir and Cinsaut
d. no longer grown in South Africa

17. Which of the following is one of the levels of the Portuguese wine classification pyramid?

a. Vinho controllada
b. Vinho regional
c. Vinho de origem
d. Vinho verde

18. In addition to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the third authorized grape variety for Champagne production is:

a. Pinot Blanc
b. Pinot Gris
c. Pinot Meunier
d. Sauvignon Blanc

19. Which of the following can be detected by the sense of touch?

a. tannin
b. flavones
c. esters
d. aldehydes

20. Which of the following lists Austrian Prädikatswein levels in increasing order by must weight?

a. Kabinett, Auslese, Beerenauslese, Ausbruch
b. Spätlese, Auslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Ausbruch
c. Spätlese, Beerenauslese, Ausbruch, Trockenbeerenauslese
d. Spätlese, Kabinett, Auslese, Eiswein

Answers:
1. a
2. b
3. c
4. d
5. a
6. c
7. b
8. d
9. b
10. d
11. a
12. a
13. d
14. a
15. c
16. c
17. b
18. c
19. a
20. c

Jonesy's EatBar

I had dinner at Jonesy's EatBar last night; delicious! It took me a while to fall asleep because I was so full from all the delicious food that was racing through my mind. I had a hard time keep my fingers away from the Truffle fries, though the PEI mussels rival any that you may find at a fine French establishment. On special for the Biennial of the Americas celebration currently (I guess it is ending today!) going on in Denver I ordered the Puerco Pibil Tortita. These sliders of pulled pork, jalapeno, and onion didn't spend much time on my plate. My favorite dessert was the cherry shortcake bread pudding followed closely by the dulce de leche. Those two desserts could in fact make up a meal entirely by themselves! Perhaps most importantly, Jonesy's is a big support of the local beverage industry. Over 30 Colorado micobrews make up the beer list. Colorado wines also are well represented on the wine list too! The watermelon jolly rancher-like 2009 Infinite Monkey Theorem Rose whetted my appetite while the 2008 Bookcliff Vineyards Cabernet Franc Reserve accompanied the rest of the meal. To describe Jonesy's in a word: GO!

Certified Specialist of Wine

I always find it interesting that the more that you learn about something you realize how little you actually know about that subject. I thought I knew a fair bit about wine so that is why I decided to become a member of the Society of Wine Educators (SWE) and assess my knowledge by taking the Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW) Exam. The SWE aims to advance wine education through professional development and certification. The SWE offers three tiers of certification: the CSW program, the Certified Specialist of Spirits (CSS) program, and the Certified Educator of Wine (CWE) program.

The CSW credential assesses and certifies “that the holder has attained a broad base of knowledge about wine equivalent to a mid-level wine professional.” The CSW credential is awarded to individuals who answer at least 75 out of 100 questions on a comprehensive exam within 60 minutes. They say that this exam does not require an in-depth knowledge of any particular wine area but a basic understanding of the full spectrum of wine topics. This knowledge can be achieved through self-study, though the SWE offers a 250-page study guide and an online wine academy to prepare candidates for the exams. The exam gauges knowledge in a variety of wine themes: physiology of taste and tasting procedures; wine composition and chemistry; wine faults; grape varieties; viticulture (grape growing); wine production (still, sparkling and fortified); wine labels and laws; world wine regions (including France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Greece, Germany, central and eastern Europe, U.S. and North America, South America, Australia, New Zealand, Asia and Africa); the U.S. wine industry; wine and health; wine service and etiquette; and food and wine pairing.

Well, I thought to myself that this sounded easy enough. After I took a sample test, I realized that I had a lot of studying to do before my exam at the end of August! Do you think that you know a bit about wine? Try for yourself. Here is the first half of the sample test. I will post the answers and the second half of the test in a few days. If you answer at least 7/10 correctly, you are on your way to possibly being a Certified Specialist of Wine!

1. Which of the following is a commune appellation in the Beaujolais?

a. Fleurie
b. Listrac
c. Margaux
d. Moulis

2. The process by which sugars and malic acid are broken down by the grapevine and used as energy is called:

a. Photosynthesis
b. Respiration
c. Translocation
d. Transpiration

3. All of the following are subregions of Chianti DOCG except:

a. Colli Fiorentini
b. Colli Sensei
c. Collio Goriziano
d. Montalbano

4. All of the following are subregions of Rioja except:

a. Rioja Alavesa
b. Rioja Alta
c. Rioja Baja
d. Rioja Classico

5. Compared to Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc:

a. Ripens earlier
b. Has more tannin
c. Has more pigment
d. Is less herbal

6. All of the following sugars are found in grapes except:

a. Fructose
b. Glucose
c. Sucrose
d. Xylose

7. What are the four categories of place of origin for classified wine in Germany, in order from largest to smallest?

a. Anbaugebiet, Bereich, Einzellage, Grosslage
b. Anbaugebiet, Bereich, Grosslage, Einzellage
c. Bereich, Anbaugebiet, Einzellage, Grosslage
d. Bereich, Anbaugebiet, Grosslage, Einzellage

8. Most of the vineyard acreage in Argentina is located:

a. In the east around Buenos Aires
b. In the north along the border with Bolivia and Paraguay
c. In the south in Patagonia
d. In the west in the foothills of the Andes

9. Which of the following is located in Western Australia?

a. Yarra Valley
b. Margaret River
c. Rutherglen
d. Eden valley

10. Which of the following appellations is only allowed to produce white or sparkling wine under AOC law?

a. Cornas
b. Crozes-Hermitage
c. Hermitage
d. St-Péray

Canyon Wind Cellars

Norm Christianson, a trained geologist, founded Canyon Winds in the easternmost and warmest part of the Grand Valley. The vines, mostly Bordeaux varieties, are rooted in alluvial soils, reminiscent of Bordeaux, filled with cobblestones and sand. With 14 different wines, Canyon Wind offers something for everyone. Here are three recommended wines from Canyon Wind:

2008 Canyon Wind Tempranillo, Grand Valley AVA

A brilliant deep purple yields to a dark rose rim. Pronounced fruit and floral aromas fill the glass. Red cherry, strawberries, violet and dried cranberries entice you to take a sip. Good acidity is matched with dried strawberries, plum, leather and a minerality in the mouth. Well balanced but with a short/medium finish. Get this one now because a freeze killed the vines to the ground this past winter and they have been replaced by Malbec. 13.4% abv. Sample (retail $20). Good (tasted 7/19/10)

2007 Canyon Wind Petit Verdot, Grand Valley AVA

The glass is filled with an opaque black/purple wine. The nose is very subtle with blueberry, violet and graphite detectable. Robust yet velvety tannins are balanced with medium-plus acidity. Blackcurrant, cocoa and charred wood highlight this full-bodied beauty. This unique varietal is concentrated, very complex and offers a long finish. 13.1% abv. Sample (retail $25). Very Good (tasted 7/19/10)

2006 Canyon Wind Cabernet Franc, Grand Valley AVA

Clear red juice. Attractive aromas of wild strawberry and hints of spices. Fruity flavors of mulberry, strawberry, black currant complement the tobacco and herbaceousness. A well-balanced wine with good acidity and complementary fruit and spice leave a long finish. 14.3% abv. Sample (retail $18). Very Good (tasted 7/19/10)

First Post!

Welcome to Colorado Wine Press. As a wine fan, I enjoying experiencing new and exciting wines from all over the world. This website is devoted to sharing my exploration of such wines with you. My plan is to focus on Colorado’s wines but any and all wines/wine experiences are fair game. The Colorado wine industry has been rapidly growing these past few years. In 1990, Colorado was home to only 5 wineries. Today, approximately 100 wineries and 2 American Viticultural Areas (AVA) call Colorado home. Every year Colorado wines wine medals from various competitions from across the country. In fact, just this year a Colorado wine (to be revealed in a later post) won a prestigious Jefferson Cup. With Colorado’s wine competing with best wines of the world, it is time that you get acquainted with these world-class wines from right in your backyard. For this first post, I’ve selected four distinct wines made by four different wineries to start us on our journey together.

2004 Crooked Creek Meritage, Montezuma County

The wine pours into a dull dark black garnet from the core to the rim. The nose is quite light with some spices, cola, and a bit of toasty vanilla. The palate yields little fruit, low acid and minimal tannins. Bitter chocolate, leather and tinned vegetables show through the light/medium body. An acceptable wine, if not a bit past its prime. 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Cabernet Franc, 20% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot. Purchased $14. Average (tasted 6/28/10)

2008 Two Rivers Riesling, Mesa County

This clear pale lemon wine packs a punch on the nose. Powerful aromas of honeysuckle, nectarine and citrus peel emanate from the glass. I want to just keep smelling this glass. The light body provides less intense flavors of gooseberry, tart nectarines and wet slate. The slight sweetness is countered with zesty acidity. A bit on the sweet side for my taste, but overall a lovely wine. 100% Riesling. Sample (retail $12). Average/Good (tasted 7/12/10)

2008 Balistreri Merlot, Barrel 212, Bennett Vineyard, Colorado

A deep purple core yields to a violet rim. The nose shows blueberry pie and blackberry liqueur with a hint of clove. Ripe and fine-grained tannins combine with complex slight jammy flavors of black plum, tobacco, lavender and a trace of black pepper. A very good, concentrated and complex wine. 100% Merlot. Sample (retail $26). Very Good (tasted 7/12/10)

2008 Plum Creek Palisade Red, Colorado

A clear ruby color. The nose is quite floral dominated by violet and dried cranberry. A light body with low acidity and light supple tannins yields red currant, black cherry, cinnamon, mint and a hint of pepper. These complex flavors supply a long finish. Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. Sample (retail $12). Good (tasted 7/12/10)